Caray, Caray!

Fabulous Argentine and Italian style food at
Caray, Caray a Mexico City restaurant
founded by Mariana Karr and María Zarattini

Avenida de la Paz, #57, 2 piso.
Plaza del Carmen
San Angel, Mexico City

To Mariana Karr and all the Caray Caray Blog fans,
Here is the promised tale of my pilgrimage to find Mariana Karr's restaurant, Caray Caray, in Mexico City. I don't remember who first reported to the blog about reading of the restaurant's grand opening last September but I made myself a promise right then to search for this connection to Doña Mariana, the talented Argentine actress, whom I regard as our patron saint of this blog. Named for Mariana's famous lines often repeated in the wonderful telenovela, Alborada, "Caray Caray", both this blog and the restaurant have held a compelling lure for me since I learned about both in the late summer of 2007.

I watched the first episode of Alborada in February 2006 while attending Spanish School at Universidad Internacional in Cuernavaca, Mexico with the family I lived with. Later in the spring, Alborada started on Univision in the States and I watched avidly with friends in New Mexico for months and we eventually would look forward to counting how many times Mariana (in the character of Tia Isabel) could say Caray Caray. She was often the only person/character who had a clue about what was happening in this intricate plot. Her portrayal is of a character full of courage and clear insight in a world of deceit and intrigue in this 19th century story of Mexico produced by Carla Estrada and so ably directed by Monica Miguel. As a romping good tale of adventure with superb Mexican actors, it was my introduction to telenovelas as an entertaining medium and method for studying Spanish and even learning more about Mexican history and culture. Writer Maria Zarratini was the screenwriter for both Alborada and Pasión.

But back to this pilgrimage. After 4 weeks of Spanish studies at Uninter, I headed to Mexico City on a bus to indulge my lifelong addiction to museums, cathedrals and pyramids in the city I have loved since my student days in my first voyage of discovery out of the US in the mid 1960's. Saturday was a gift of blue skies in a city with formidable air problems while the gentle February sun energized me for the pursuit of the art treasures in the Museum of Modern Art. Armed with my new level of Spanish and hungry after my breakfast of huevos rancheros wore off, I fearlessly conquered the Metro system which is pleasantly clean, efficient and cheap. It is so easy to use I don't know why I hesitated using it the last two years. I guess the scary stories of dangers in Mexico City have worn off slowly. I think an alert, circumspect traveler is totally safe in the daytime visiting all the wonderful historical treasures and enjoying the delightful cuisine and shopping. The people are incredibly friendly. Sunday is especially congenial as a family day when the citizens want to enjoy the same beautiful sites that the tourists do.

I arrived in this prosperous neighborhood of Plaza del Carmen in southern Mexico City which hosts a Saturday market of arts and crafts and found Caray, Caray on the 2 piso (3rd floor to US folks). It is a tiny, pristine restaurant with simple yet elegant decor (well wouldn't you expect this petite, elegant woman to convey her personal style in every centimeter of the place?). The staff was warm and friendly, I took a few pictures and told the waiter about my quest to find the restaurant and a bit about the Caray, Caray Blog. Shortly after, the manager emerged who happens to be Mariana's daughter Sol. She asked more questions about the blog then she gave me the incredible news that Mariana would be at the restaurant on Sunday afternoon. If I could come back again, I could meet her. WOW! The food was delicious and so fresh. I chose the steak "Arrachera" figuring a true Argentine restaurant would know what to do with beef. Since I grew up in Wyoming I have, even in these anti-red-meat times, an occasional penchant for great beef. I have had arrachera before in Mexico and it is a great tasting thin piece of steak (the cut is flank steak in the US). But, come hungry, Caray, Caray's version is BIG, so very tender and flavorful. All I could fit in besides was a simple fresh salad of lettuce, tomato and onion. The menu tells that no preservatives are used and you can taste the truth of it's freshness.

Sunday was another blue sky day that I started the morning with a bus ride to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe enjoying the gardens, all the antique churches and the throngs of happy pilgrims and visitors on a joyful day for families to enjoy these world famous treasures. In the afternoon I made my way on the Metrobus back to Plaza del Carmen and sat down again in Caray Caray wondering if Mariana Karr would indeed come. Her daughter and assorted family and friends were already there. Everyone was so friendly like the day before and greeted me so warmly. She appeared suddenly at my table. I was so overwhelmed by the sight of her especially the light streaming from her brilliant blue eyes, I was almost unable to remember any Spanish. Fortunately, I had my laptop with me so showed her some pictures as I explained about the Caray Caray blog with all her fans. Yes, I even showed her the Willa, the blog-famous poodle pictures in her pirate scarf posing as the long lost twin to Fernando Colunga's alter ego, Ricardo in Pasión. She laughed at that, but I was unable to connect to the wireless internet at the restaurant to give her a tour of CarayCaray. I gave her the website URL, http://caraycaray.blogspot.com which I hope she will access to see this story and hear from all of you in the comments.

But back to the important details of the second meal: this time I chose from the list of "La Verdadera Empanada Argentina". The humita, with corn and cheese (elote y queso) and the carne with the most delicately spiced ground beef. The pie-like crust characteristic of empanadas was so tender and did I mention how fresh and flavorful? Every bite melts in your mouth. Oh, and the real Italian capuchino was the living end after a month of disappointing, tepid Nescafe instant coffee in too many places in Mexico.

If (when) you go, here's how to get there:
Directions using the Metro: From whatever point you enter the Metro get to Line 3 (Indios Verdes to Universidad) go south toward Universidad to the San Angel colonia to the stop Viveros or Miguel Angel de Quevedo. When you come out of the metro look for a taxi to Avenida de la Paz #57, 2 piso, Plaza del Carmen. The metro is 2 pesos and the taxi will be about 35 to 50 pesos.

Directions using the Metrobus on Avenida Insurgentes: This brings you closest to the restaurant. Put in about 12 to 20 pesos, depending on your entry point, the machine which does not give change, you get a plastic reusable card which then needs to be activated in this machine then scanned at the turnstile. Friendly guards and fellow travelers will help till you get the hang of it. Take the bus headed south toward Dr. Galvez but get off one stop early at La Bombilla. When you exit you will be on Av. Insurgentes looking south, at the first corner see Av. de la Paz., cross to your left and walk left uphill about one block to #57 on the left. The elevator or stairs will take you up to Caray Caray.
Later at night or if you don't feel confident with Spanish, taking a taxi may be best. From the Zona Rosa area this will cost at least 150 to 200 pesos each way.

The food at Caray Caray was the best I had in all of Mexico. What a fabulous, unexpected delight to meet this warm, personable lady and what a privilege to tell her about this blog and all the friends she has here. Thanks Mariana for a memorable day.
Hasta luego amigas y amigos,
CherylNewMex or
CherylMarParaNMex
and Pirate Lass Willa
aka Pirate Ricardo's lost twin

Labels: Alborada, Pasion, stars